Lisbon User Guide

Europeans, and not just Brits, are increasingly getting the curry habit. And with Lisbon’s fourth and fifth largest resident foreign populations being Nepalese and Bangladeshi, that means more Nepalese and Bangladeshi restaurants. Which means more curry. Many restaurants on the Rua do Benformoso, which is Bangla Central, offer only a water jug or soft drinks. Respect this. If you want a beer, wait until afterwards, then walk north across the Largo do Intendente, along the Rua dos Anjos and there on the right is the Dois Corvos Intendente tap room. The walk shouldn’t take more than ten minutes. Here's the restaurants ... Spicy Restaurant and Grill Bangla Restaurant Taste of Lahore Restaurant ODAAN Tentacões de Goa Little Indiia Bhetgat Lisbon Sekuwa Corner Royal Spicy Indian Dosa [ HOME ]

Rua do Benformoso Location HERE Opposite the Taste of Lahore (see 5.2.3). Do I want spicy? Sure do. Not the very cheapest, but good. And the mango lassi was lovely. Good filling curry with rice and the lassi for eleven and a half Euro. No alcohol on offer. [ HOME ]

Rua Andrade 26 (also close to Intendente Metro). Location HERE Nepalese and Indian restaurant. Opposite the Bhetgat, and also opposite Sputnik Craft Beer! They also ask how spicy you want your food. Chilli chicken was very good indeed, and veg chilli Momo was better. Also not expensive, and also with not so much seating inside. [ HOME ]

Rua Andrade 59-61 (close to Intendente Metro). Location HERE Small Nepalese and Indian restaurant. They asked if I was OK with spicy. Certainly was - the Chicken Pakoda was lean and tasty, especially with the hot sauce, and Chicken Chilli Momo just fabulous. It’s not expensive, either. Service excellent, too. Not many seats inside - so don’t leave your visit too late. [ HOME ]

Largo Santos 9A Location HERE Was on Rua Bernardim Ribeiro (near Gomes Freire), but has now moved to Largo Santos, which is just west of Cais do Sodré and the Time Out Market. They now have more room inside, and lots outside. The Chicken Madras was superb. Service and prices good. Beer after options include Musa da Bica and Quimera Brewpub (latter via a 714 bus). [ HOME ]

Rua de São Pedro Mártir 23 Location HERE Start off up the Beco Surradores but follow the road round to the left instead of doing the steps. Goan Chicken Curry - good and coconutty! [ HOME ]

Beco dos Cavaleiros Location HERE Down a short alleyway off the Rua dos Cavaleiros. Nepalese and Indian. Great food, great service. Nepalese Thali was rather good. Nepalese starter equally so. Outside seating in a little yard surrounded by Mouraria houses. [ HOME ]

Rua do Benformoso 76 Location HERE Friendly people, and a Chicken Biryani with a glass of Mango Lassi for eight and a half Euro. The Biryani was well spicy. No alcohol on offer. [ HOME ]

Rua do Benformoso 147 Location HERE A few steps down, a small seating area. The Singara was excellent. Chicken Madras wasn’t so spicy, but the sauce was rich. No alcohol on offer. [ HOME ]

Rua do Benformoso 203 Location HERE Like curry houses in the UK used to be. Basic decor, good spicy curry, which may not suit everyone. Not expensive. No alcohol on offer. [ HOME ]

CAUTION 1 I recommend that you avoid eateries on the Rua Augusta, and elsewhere in the Baixa - unless mentioned specifically here. Ignore the entreaties of pushy waiters out on the pavement. CAUTION 2 The eateries at the Time Out Market (opposite Cais do Sodré station) are not recommended. It was a good idea once, but what you get for the price charged is, in my opinion, not good value. Also, the beer offering is poor: Super Bock 1927 or commodity pilsner. If you do eat there, walk round to Musa da Bica afterwards and wash it down with something decent. CAUTION 3 If you don’t want it, say so, and don’t touch it: many Portuguese restaurants will bring you unsolicited extras. These are not free. Sometimes they are good and you’ll want to try them: A Licorista O Bacalheiro does rather good Pasteis de Bacalhau, which, the last time I went there, were 2.5 Euro for two. But if you don’t want them, say so - and don’t touch them. On with the eateries ... A Licorista O Bacalheiro Girasol O Marq...

Travessa do Forno 23 Location HERE Behind the Rossio, this is another in the line of eateries that includes O Marques and Girasol. Not expensive, good Bacalhau dishes, house wine inexpensive, and justifiably very popular. I got a table by getting there spot on 1900 hours; when I left an hour or so later, there was a very long queue, which may have been made longer because my visit was during the period when other restaurants on the street have their August closure. [ HOME ]

Rua Nova da Trindade 20C Location HERE The moderately upmarket Lisbon version of a beer hall. Grand setting, grand decor, tiled murals, and the waiters fussing over you. So it’s not cheap, but one of those places you might want to experience as part of the tourist trail. Staff have a preparation area out front, with the weighing scales taking pride of place, though I didn’t see them being used in anger (they are for weighing fresh fish and seafood, which is charged per Kilo). Lots of punters sit outside, but this sort of misses the point, even on a warm evening - it’s all about the interior, the setting. The food offering is good, and the beer offering, from Cervejas Trindade, is also good, although the Profana IPA is only available in bottle. This is the same beer you can get further down the street, on tap, at O Purista. What was not appreciated, and what many occasional visitors may also dislike, is the adding of a suggested extra amount to the bill (perversely, this is 6%, and less...

Rua do Norte 24 Location HERE South end of the Bairro Alto. CHAIN EATERY with another branch at Campo Grande, and several more across the country. One speciality above everything else here, and that’s the Francesinha. What that? Well, it started off as a take on the Croque Monsieur by someone in Porto. Along the way it acquired a seriously heavy meat filling, got smothered in cheese, and also got a fried egg on top (but no spam, Python fans). It comes with a beer-based sauce, and like the Pastel de Nata, every outlet claims theirs is the best, and that their sauce is better than everyone else’s. The Francesinha used to be a staple of outlets in Porto, but has gradually migrated south (microbrewery Praxis, in Coimbra, does a well-sauced (ho ho ho) version). Now you can get it in Lisbon. And you need to be more than slightly peckish to stand a chance of getting through one. Taberna Londrina also do not offer any unsolicited extras, but do have a reasonable selection of bottled beers to a...

Calçada do Duque 5 Location HERE Near the top entrance to Estação do Rossio. THIS OUTLET IS CASH ONLY This area is tourist central. And this place is not only cash only, it’s not the cheapest. HOWEVER. The fried chicken was rather good, and for all those tourists out there who are not yet up to speed on such things, no hidden extras, nothing unsolicited brought out to your table. What you order is what you pay for. They have a Fish Of The Day which is not cheap, but fresh. [ HOME ]

Travessa de Santo Antão 11 Location HERE Just off Praça dos Restauradores. Another long-established central Lisbon landmark, and another place pulling in large crowds of punters more or less every night. Claims to be the place where Piri-Piri Chicken originated. As you do. But the spit roast chicken is excellent in its own right. Accompanied by a portion of Brazilian rice, it’s even better. Lots of outside seating, which, on a good evening, is almost full by 1900 hours. [ HOME ]

Rua do Loreto 49-51 Location HERE Between Praça Luis de Camões and the top of the Elevador da Bica. The name is a bit of a misnomer: sure, you can get Caril de Frango here, and it’s not at all bad, but the restaurant serves a whole range of Portuguese dishes, especially Bacalhau. It’s been there since I can remember, and it’s been consistently busy. Be prepared to get there early or be prepared to queue. Or be disappointed. [ HOME ]

Rua do Duque 15 Location HERE Above the Rossio but below Largo do Carmo. If you want to avoid the dreaded steps, approach using the Calçada do Carmo. Another restaurant that gets very busy; you can expect it to be full by 2000 hours - which may mean queuing. The bloke who runs the show can be a bit full of himself, but the food backs him up. Not the cheapest, but good. You may be offered bottled wine, but they do have the carafe variety. Which is OK, and less expensive. [ HOME ]

Travessa do Forno 9 Location HERE Behind the Rossio, this is the domain of Paulo Marques, who also restores old Lisbon trams. As you enter, there is a short length of tram track and a mockup of 326, which is one of Paulo’s fleet. The Carris Museum has 330, a similar bogie tram. [Nerd] Mounted on two Brill maximum traction trucks [/Nerd]. There are also photos of historic Lisbon trams and buses at work. Lots of UK-built, or partly built, buses, too. Carris used to be British-owned. Until the Revolution, when it got nationalised. Most things that moved got nationalised after the Revolution. Top value, good Bacalhau dishes, good omelettes too. Carafe wine inexpensive but sound. Don’t expect to get a seat in the restaurant if you arrive after 1930 hours; when it’s dry and not too cold, there is outside seating. Which can also get full. Competition between locals and tourists. [ HOME ]

Travessa do Forno 29 Location HERE Behind the Rossio, this is one of four eateries next to one another, all busy not long after 1900 hours, and all offering straightforward and good value food. Decent Bacalhau dishes, carafe wine sound, the staff can get rushed off their feet and when you leave, there will most likely be a queue outside. [ HOME ]

Rua dos Sapateiros 218 Location HERE So named because it’s two restaurants knocked together. O Bacalheiro is the part closer to the arch at the top of the street. Yes, it’s in the Baixa, but I make an exception for this one: not the cheapest, but not silly expensive, either. If you’re not there before 2000 hours, you may have to wait. Especially if your group is more than two people. Decent grilled fish, good Bacalhau dishes. The Bacalhau c/Natas may not be in the English part of the menu, but is usually available. It’s good. Carafe wine is sound. You may be offered a Ginjinha with the bill. Be brave. [ HOME ]

My very first Lisbon guidebook, going back almost 30 years, told that many Lisboetas drank tea, rather than coffee. Not any more they don’t. Especially first thing of a morning, and through the day, it’s got to be coffee. And if your café, kiosk or restaurant can’t manage to dispense a decent coffee, it’s toast, as it were. So finding a good cup of coffee is not difficult. Many locals drink the one-shot Bica ; some of those who can’t manage to go totally Portuguese on coffee prefer a Galão , a café au lait in a glass. I’m in the latter category, and get a significant amount of stick for it. Ho hum. I’ve included some well-known cafés, and some chain outlets, to give a few ideas on where to get a decent coffee and accompanying snack. The Names Pastéis de Belém A Brasileira do Chiado Café Nicola Pastelaria Aloma Confeitaria Nacional The Chains Quiosque Lisboa (and other Quiosques) A Padaria Portuguesa [ HOME ]

Several locations across the city Literally “ The Portuguese Bakery ”. They do coffee, pastries, and also breakfast and lunch deals. I just had coffee and (sometimes) pastries. Outlets sampled were at Graça ( HERE ), Restauradores ( HERE ), Alameda Santo António dos Capuchos ( HERE ), Rua Luís de Camões at Santo Amaro ( HERE ), Rua Aúrea ( HERE ), and at Amoreiras shopping centre ( HERE ). You can sit inside - which has the advantage of avoiding the city heat, and at Restauradores, the inevitable pigeons. Again, there is no table service, as you order and collect at the counter. Service was prompt, prices reasonable, especially for central Lisbon, and the coffee was good. [ HOME ]

Several locations across the city I tried the outlet at Saldanha ( HERE ). The coffee was good and the service was better. Snacks up to burger level are available, as well as the ubiquitous pastries. What’s on offer, and what it costs, are clearly displayed. There is another outlet by the tram terminus at Campolide ( HERE ). Which is also good. Ditto the one at Largo do Camões ( HERE ). Those outlets are part of the Quiosques Lisboa chain. I also sampled the Quiosque Oliveira at Principe Real ( HERE ). This was also good. One for tram nerds is Quiosque 28 ( HERE ), adjacent to the tram terminus at Prazeres, operating out of a shipping container, and with lots of awnings to keep the sunlight off. Good coffee, good service. Don’t forget, some Quiosque outlets do not have toilet facilities. But Quiosque 28 is one which does. For all of the above, don’t expect table service - that’s what a Quiosque is all about. Also, prices are displayed prominently at all the Quiosque Lisboa outlets, so ...

Rua Francisco Metrass 67 Location HERE It’s up in Campo de Ourique, a short walk from the tram stop at Igreja do Santo Condestável. The Aloma is included because its Pastéis de Nata regularly beat all others to the title of Lisbon’s Best. Some of the confectionery on offer is brought in, but the Pastéis de Nata are made in store. Are they the best? Not easy to tell: mine were cold, and one of the joys of visiting Pastéis de Belém (for instance) is getting them still warm from the oven. But very good pastry, and tasty filling. The coffee was rather good, too. [ HOME ]

Praça Dom Pedro IV 24 Location HERE It’s on the Rossio! Began as a café, but now is more of a restaurant. No queuing, waiter service, not the cheapest, but good - it is their own brand of coffee, after all. Sit outside and people watch, or sit inside and admire the decor. A very good, and not too strong, Galão here. [ HOME ]

Rua Garrett 122 Location HERE Is it the oldest café in Lisbon? Doubtful. But that’s not its claim to fame. Guess what? You may have to queue, not for the first time. Sit inside and admire the mirrored decor, or outside and people watch. You visit A Brasileira for the experience; with a Galão costing more than four Euro, you don’t go there seeking out bargains. It’s a very powerful and distinctive Galão too, and the snack menu has some surprises, like the savoury stuffed croissant. One of those seriously large pastries, with its serious stuffing, makes for a seriously filling lunch. So overall, maybe not so pricy. The seated statue of Fernando Pessoa is popular for photos, although whether A Brasileira really was his favourite café is for continuing debate. Print the legend, and all that. [ HOME ]

Rua de Belém 84-92 Location HERE All those in the long queue outside the shop - nah. Don’t. If you want the best place to enjoy the legendary Pastéis , endure a shorter queuing experience and visit their café. The Pastéis de Belém cost the same, they’re straight from the oven (may still be hot - exercise caution here), you get to sit down after what may well be a lot of walking, and you can use the bathroom too. The coffee is always good. Not expensive: scan the menu while queuing. [ HOME ]

Rua Rodrigues Faria 103 Location HERE It’s in the LX Factory! Argentinian themed food outlet in an often over-priced and overrated area. The LX Factory has matured into another haven of niche shops and pricey eateries. This place, however, is OK if you need to put your feet up and chill. Dois Corvos beers, which are not such a bad thing, and Mate Argentinian pilsner. A food offering including empanadas, as well as the inevitable burgers. Service good, staff helpful, not so expensive. [ HOME ]

Largo do Duque de Cadaval Location HERE It’s below the Estação do Rossio! Go in the lower street level station entrance, through one of those ornate arches, up the first escalator, go left and outside, then right and it’s just past the corner of the building. Used to be the Beer Station, but was transformed into a Peruvian Bar, though the tap craft beer is still available. Not much space inside (and when the rain arrives in force, you need to sit inside), but plenty of outside seating. [ HOME ]

Rua Andrade 41A Location HERE Allegedly the focal point for the local Russian community - the Cyrillic script, the name, they might be a giveaway. But, so what? It’s still a good place to have a scoop or three. Just round the corner from Dois Corvos Intendente, and with one or two of their beers, but still plenty of other items, on the board. And one or two unexpected and enterprising offerings: this is the place where I encountered Cantillon Gueuze 2023, and not at a silly price, either (it was bloody excellent, too). Food is nibbly stuff, plus toasted sandwiches. There is table football, where I’m told one of the regular bar staff will wipe the floor with all comers. Big bottled beer and can offering, too. One minus point - the air currents mean that when a few punters go out front for a smoke, it can drift into the bar. And not like the whistle in Chattanooga Choo Choo. One plus point, it’s close to Indian and Nepalese restaurants like the Bhetgat, and Lisbon Sekuwa Corner. Beer and...

Rua dos Douradores 133 Location HERE The original Canil, offering its own brews, with maybe one or two collaborations, plus a long-ish list of other Portuguese beer, footnoted by a few taps from elsewhere in Europe. The Canil ones are generally less pricy. A moderately loud rock soundtrack, but that shouldn’t put you off - there are some seats outside, but oh dear, mind the traffic on that narrow street. The staff are keen to help, and there is a decent food offering, including the top value filler-upper, Rustic Fries (with suitably filling cheese dip). Punch Session IPA, Dry Stout, Kolsch, Red Ale - they’re all good. [ HOME ]

Rua Nova do Almada 14 Location HERE Actually on the corner of R N do Almada and Rua da Conceição, so you can not just people watch from the upper level, but tram crush watch too. I have seen successive number 28s rumble by after 2030 hours with what looked like the full complement of 58 punters, maybe more, on board both, Opened just before Christmas 2023, and yes, I was there on the first evening. This is a rather different offering to most of the rest: there are many US imports among the tap choices, some of which you won’t get elsewhere in Lisbon, or indeed elsewhere in Portugal. Some of these are not cheap. This has spawned a rash of bad faith “ reviews ”, some of which are all too obviously pejorative, and/or from people who haven’t visited. Some of the beers are not expensive. Same with the extensive selection of bottled beers. Nobody is going to strong-arm you into going top of the price range. The food offering is New York style big slice pizza. The staff are very helpful. I ha...

Rua de São João da Praça 95 Location HERE South side of the Cathedral. And NOT between Corpo Santo and Pink Street. This outlet started out near Corpo Santo, but moved around the time of the Covid pandemic. And hey, it’s another old building with very solid walls, and a crap phone signal. But they have wi-fi, which is usually OK. For Python fans, and those wanting to chill out that little bit more, they have, yes … Comfy Chairs! And a sort of Rock FM soundtrack. Varied and well-curated beer list, backed up by good and enthusiastic service. Also backing up the beer is a good menu of food, including the ever-reliable stomach filler of Chunky Chips. The choices also include Alheira with eggs. What that? Alheira is a sort of smoky sausage. Try it once. It’s a little bit of a climb from the Baixa: 737 bus from Praça da Figueira, or be prepared to endure the crush on a 28 tram. Alight at Sé (Cathedral). [ HOME ]

Rua dos Anjos 16B Location HERE Not perhaps as well placed as Musa da Bica, although good for those wanting a beer after having a curry on the Rua do Benformoso, another city outlet for one of the Marvila micros. And not for the first time in an old building with solid walls, the phone signal is crap. Not sure about the wi-fi: at first, it wouldn’t connect, and then the connection was a bit inconsistent. Beer range similar to the main Dois Corvos. Food menu looks good, though I confess I’ve not gone beyond the snack level here. Slightly tricky hill outside. Lots of buses and trams just up that hill and out on the Avenida Almirante Reis, plus it’s close to Intendente Metro station (Linha Verde, steps only). Variably busy, as in you can get there early in the evening to find it almost empty, while on another evening it’s already busy and getting busier. The staff know their beer and are really enthusiastic. [ HOME ]

Calçada de Salvador Correia de Sá 2A Location HERE Close to the lower station of the Bica funicular, so you get the opportunity to watch the queue of punters outside. This is the central Lisbon branch of an established microbrewery, selling the whole range of Musa beers, which are good. As in, better than many critics give them credit for. It gets busy later in the evening, and there is the kind of menu that makes folks eat here, rather than eat elsewhere and then make a quick visit later. Lots of seating inside, plus seating outside, and seating across the street. That’s plenty of places to be seated. Many tourists are drawn to sampling both beer and food - this is, after all, very tourist central, a short walk from Estação Cais do Sodré, the Time Out Market, and Pink Street. Buses, trams, Metro (Linha Verde, beware broken escalators, travolators, and lifts), heavy rail services and ferries over at Cais do Sodré. [ HOME ]

Rua Nova da Trindade 16C Location HERE First thing you encounter on entering is a barber’s chair. Two of them, in fact - shades of Gallagher’s in Birkenhead, only twice. Small set of good beer, mainly Trindade brews, the same stuff they serve in Cervejaria Trindade up the street. But the Profana IPA is on tap here, not in bottle. There are some commodity beers, and Lagunitas IPA, which is a reliable standby. And, Wayne’s World alert, They Have A Pool Table! Plus Python alert, there are Comfy Chairs! A snack menu is available. The staff are very enthusiastic and helpful. Beer not expensive, especially considering the location. [ HOME ]

Calçada do Duque 51 Location HERE Yebbut all those steps? DON’T. If you’re approaching from the Baixa or Rossio, try using the escalators at Estação do Rossio, then up the Calçada do Carmo, round the north side of the Largo do Carmo, and finally Rua da Oliveira ao Carmo. That brings you out just below the pub, with not so many steps, and outside tables, to negotiate. Alternatively use the Glória funicular (queue permitting), left at the top and walk down Rua Misericórdia, then across Largo Trindade Coelho. It’s not just the steps on the Calçada do Duque, but the maddening proliferation of eateries that spread out on to them, making it an obstacle course. Sure, the Duque Brewpub has tables outside, but they’re positively modest compared to the worst offenders. Annoying. But back at the pub … grab an outside table if you can (and the weather is OK), but remember that there is no waiter service. You must order at the bar, and that is where you collect your beer. Food gets brought out to y...

Largo do Tab 9 Location HERE Close to the Rossio, and north end of the Baixa, but tucked away. A well-curated and well-varied beer list, with a menu of snacks and a few more substantial offerings. Happy hour discount earlier on weekday evenings. The folks behind the bar are knowledgeable and helpful. Plus there is a modestly priced Pilsner for when football appears on the TV and it gets busier. Some beers you might not expect in Lisbon - on my last visit there were a couple from Porto brewery Letra. For those who say it’s all climbing to get there, not necessarily. Wander up the Rua das Portas de Santo Antão to the Lavra funicular, turn right at the top exit, follow the Rua Câmara Pestana, round the corner, then right, down the Calçada de Sant’Ana, and left by Nui Sushi. Very little climbing involved. Or walk over from Campo Mártires Pátria. [ HOME ]

Rua de Santa Marta 35 Location HERE Actually, this is not far from AMO Brewery, but down the hill and close to Avenida da Liberdade. A second outlet for Canil, which means Kennel, hence the stylised dog’s head logo. A sub-set of the Canil offering you’d expect at their main place in the Baixa, with a similar food menu. Which includes battered cod and chips, British People. Decent beer, good service, not generally as busy as the main branch. One difference is the self-serve range of beers which, whenever I visit, does not seem to tempt any punters. A novel idea which has attracted criticism for beers not being in particularly good condition. HOWEVER. It’s keg, innit? The problem, I concluded, is that the beers are not drawn through often enough to clear the lines. So what you get for the first one out is what’s in the line connecting the keg to the tap. YEUCH. There are something like 14 of these beers, and if they don’t get drawn through so often, it becomes a self-defeating concept. M...

Rua Damasceno Monteiro 8A Location HERE The name means “ Eighth Hill ”. Perched overlooking the old downtown, with the best views of any craft beer outlet, this is an excellent place to while away an hour or two. Their beers include Urraca Vendaval IPA, which is beyond merely good. There is a food menu (including the moreish Green Beans Tempura) and seats outside. And did I mention the views? For all those saying that you need to do lots of climbing steep streets and/or steps to get here, no you don’t. Get the 734 minibus, or 28 tram, from Martim Moniz, to Graça - job done. Or the 10B Bairrobus from Campo Cebolas, which is near the Sul e Sueste bus stops and the Terreiro do Paço ferry terminal (as with the 734 and tram, alight at Graça). Once here, you’ll encounter the Air BnB Graça crowd, which is significantly Stateside and laid back. Engage, chill, laugh a little. And enjoy the beer. [ HOME ]

Rua Nova do Desterro 29D Location HERE Not far from the main drag of Avenida Almirante Reis, but far enough for not enough people to know it’s there. The folks behind the bar are always happy to see you, it’s literally next door to the brewing operation, the beer is good, and there are good snacks available too. Popular with both beer tourists, and locals, which is a good sign. Some seating out on the street, much more inside. Full range of beers, including the inevitable IPA, plus the odd stout. Not always easy to tear yourself away after just one glass of beer. Buses 17B and 760 over on the Rua do São Lázaro, 723 just up the road, and lots more (plus the 28 tram) down on the Rua da Palma/Avenida Almirante Reis. [ HOME ]

Rua Luciano Cordeiro 2C Location HERE Bar on the ground floor, tables outside if you prefer, and a co-working space on the mezzanine. A snack menu may be available. Not the longest beer list, but usually a decent choice is available, with one of their own brews, or a collaboration beer, in the mix. Their Tropical Pale Ale is usually good. Remember, in order not to look too mellow when you visit the toilets, they have SLIDING doors. Buses 19B, 723 and 730. Also 767 nearby, plus 17B and 760 over at Campo Santana. [ HOME ]

Rua Passos Manuel 102C Location HERE A downstairs bar, so steps to consider, 17 of them. And the toilets are upstairs. But if you’re cool with that, there is a decent beer list, and it’s popular with locals. Can get busy later in the evening. And there are snacks, from the stew of chicken gizzards to the vegan bifana (I kid you not). Plus an often banging punk rock soundtrack. Not expensive, and not where some guides claim it is. Buses 17B, 706 and 726 further up the street. Not so far from the Metro (Linha Verde) at Anjos. [ HOME ]

Rua Bernadim Ribeiro 53 Location HERE The Brewpub In A Doorway™. One doorway leads to the brewery, another to the bar. Sometimes the card machine won’t connect; bring a few Euros in cash. There may be pretzels if you feel peckish. Confession: I haven’t visited when the weather is bad. Why is this important? Because you either sit, or stand, on the street outside. Locals look in for a beer; some look in just for a chat. It’s very friendly and laid back. So what about the beer? It’s good. Very good. Their IPA is called “ Most Wanted ” with some justification. There are sour beers, dark beers, the whole range. You might want to try a few. Careful with that tiled pavement, mind. Buses 17B, 760, 767 and 774 at Gomes Freire nearby. 19B down the hill. [ HOME ]

Rua do Funchal 5 Location HERE Only open late-ish on Thursday and Friday; there is a sign out on the street marking the passageway through to what is a garage brewery with a home-made vibe. What beers will be on? Ah, but that’s all part of the visit. You can’t be certain. But you do know that there will be something worth the effort, along with the opportunity to chat with the people who make the beer. On a recent visit, I had a glass of their Munich Rye IPA. Sat down, looked at it, a bit dark and cloudy … have a taste … WOAH! This was seriously good beer. And the brewery has its own doggie. Go on, give it a visit. Buses 720, 726 and 767 over at Arco do Cego, or 742 on Rua Visconde Santarém. [ HOME ]

Rua Prior Do Crato 6 Location HERE The Brewpub In A Tunnel™. The phone signal is, once again, crap, but once again, they have Wi-Fi, and it’s good. The menu includes New York deli sandwiches (good) and the range of beers now focuses on their own brews, the inevitable IPAs including NAFIPA, or Not Another F***ing IPA (I kid you not). A laid back atmosphere, lots of cushions and comfortable seating. Many punters will miss this place because it’s out at Alcântara, and it’s their bad. You can get here by bus, tram or heavy rail (the last-named only on weekdays, sadly). This very worthwhile watering hole is a short walk from the 15 tram; 713, 714, 727 and 773 buses, and not far up the hill from Alcântara-Terra station. [ HOME ]

Rua do Vale Formoso 9 Location HERE Another spot of nostalgia, albeit a small one: the original Musa in Marvila was on the Rua do Açúcar, and attracted a crowd diverse in age. This site used to be Bo Brewpub, the brewery tap of Fábrica Bolina. Whether merger or takeover I don’t know. Musa beers are not at all bad, from Red Zeppelin Ale to Born In The IPA. But this place, although jumping late of a weekend, seems odd on a midweek evening. Few people around and a horribly glary backdrop. But if you’re in the area, why not? Bus 728 for Praça do Comércio and Belém one way, and Oriente the other. Close to Braço de Prata heavy rail station. Having said that, Musa’s in-town outlet, Musa da Bica, is seriously good. [ HOME ]

Rua Cap. Leitão 1B Location HERE How to get there … same directions as Dois Corvos. This outlet used to be called Lince. And some of the glasses still are! Laid back, cool place, some comfy seating. And the menu, although not extensive, includes their sourdough pizza. I am not a pizza person, but these are rather good. Some groups visit to eat, with the beer as an extra. That beer has significant variety to it, and the selection is helped along by a series of experimental brews that get tested on a live and willing audience. One example of that was the Trial And Error weekend in Autumn 2023: all you could sup from the T+E mini board for a fixed price, served in smaller glasses, and the feedback was welcomed. I did one of these and survived. Maybe others wouldn’t mind following suit. If you’re doing this place and Dois Corvos in one session, maybe do Fermentage last - it’s closer to the bus stop if you need to make a swift exit. Buses 728 (to Oriente or P. Comércio), 718 to Roma-Areeiro...

Rua Cap. Leitão 94 Location HERE A repurposed industrial space which has been expanded recently by moving the brewing part of the operation elsewhere. The name means “ Two Crows ” and this comes from the two birds on the flag of Lisbon. Many visitors also eat here: the menu includes snacks, burgers, and Cod’n’chips. Beers include the rather good Creature IPA, and recent additions, Woke Ewok (ho ho ho) coffee porter, plus The Kids Are All Rye (Rye IPA). There is at least one sour on the board, and other variations on the IPA theme. Plus the inevitable stronger beers, including those Imperial Stouts and DIPAs. The staff are knowledgeable and friendly. Get there on a 728 bus from central Lisbon or Oriente, or a 718 from outside Roma-Areeiro station; the stop is Palácio Mitra. Or, for the adventurous, a suburban train to Marvila with a short walk and a serious number of steps down (Monday to Friday only; Marvila has no weekend service). Dois Corvos has recently opened an outlet rather clos...

Calçada de São Francisco 6A Location HERE Used to be at the eastern end of the Rua de São Julião. But it isn’t now. More food outlet than bar, but they don’t mind you just dropping in for a beer. Correcting those who say the beer offering is all commodity stuff, no it isn’t. Their wheat beer is brewed by Oitava Colina, they have that brewery’s Urraca Vendaval IPA on as a permanent fixture, Musa Frank APA, and Dois Corvos Murmurio too. Not a huge selection, but worth a detour for the IPA, for those not inclined to do the hike up to Graça. Talking of food outlet, this is the place famed for its Flaming Sausage™, which you’ve got to try once (sadly, it can no longer be 'flamed' at the table). The day’s tapas offerings are brought around on the Merchant’s Cart: one of those plus the flaming sausage is a decent meal - and not expensive, especially given the Tourist Central location. Trobadores have a stand at the pop-up market that happens on the Praça da Figueira; it does not take ...

THE LISBON USERGUIDE How to get there, get to your hotel (or Pensão, or Airbnb), get around, free attractions, pay attractions, good places to eat, coffee shops, craft beer outlets, and how to keep safe and secure. Author: Tim Fenton Version: 1.0 October 2024 1 Introduction 1.1 Keeping Safe and Secure 1.2 All You Need Is Cash 2 Arrival in Lisbon 2.1 Airport 2.2 Coach And Rail 2.3 Where You’re Staying 3 Getting Around 3.1 Taxis 3.2 Private Hire (incl TukTuks + TVDEs) 3.3 Public Transport 3.4 Inclusive Tours 3.5 The Lisboa Card 3.6 Toilets 4 Attractions 4.1 The Old Downtown 4.2 Landmarks 4.3 Viewpoints 4.4 Green Spaces 4.5 Museums 4.6 Everything Else 5 Eating 5.1 Portuguese Cuisine 5.2 Curry Houses 5.3 Bifana + Prego 5.4 International Cuisine 6 Drinking 6.1 Coffee Shops 6.2 Craft Beer Outlets Disclaimer: no liability is accepted for any disappointment, injury, illness, incapacitation, or any other deleterious consequence of acting on t...