Posts

4.7.7 Eléctrico de Sintra

Image
Runs from near Sintra to Praia das Maçãs ( HERE to HERE ). Timetable and ticket prices HERE . That’s how the local council, who operate the Sintra Tram nowadays, spell it - the old way, with a C. And this mainly rural tramway has been through a few changes in ownership over the years: when Rodoviária Nacional, the state-owned bus operator created in the wake of the 1974 Revolution, was sold off, the operations west of Lisbon ultimately became Stagecoach Portugal. The new operator discovered that their acquisition also included the Sintra Tram. In days gone by, the Sintra terminus was outside the station, but now you have a short walk from train to tram. The route passes Ribeira, where the trams are now stored, then Galamares, Colares and Banzão before seeing all the villas on the Avenida do Atlântico, then passing Aldeia da Praia to reach Praia das Maçãs. And the journey takes around 45 minutes, meaning a leisurely pace and an opportunity to experience slower travel. On warmer and sun...
Post a Comment
Read more

5.1.26 Cais No Bacalhau

Image
Rua do Arsenal 158 Location HERE . Open 1200 to 1600 hours Sunday and Monday, 1200 to 2300 hours all other days. At the west end of Rua do Arsenal, just across the road from Corpo Santo, and a short walk from Praça do Comércio and Cais do Sodré, is this small and welcoming outlet majoring in, yes you guessed already, bacalhau dishes. It can be made into almost no walking at all by arriving on a bus or tram, as both stop outside the door. So I ordered the Bacalhau Assado, and that should be what gets discussed first, but as so often, those small distractions mean the review gets sidetracked. And the small distractions here were the olives. You know it will take a few minutes for a main course like that to be prepared, so one way to pass the time is to order a side dish. My favourite is to get a plate of olives, and these did not disappoint. But then a thought entered: these olives were served without stones. And thus the review getting sidetracked. Portuguese restaurants usually serve o...
Post a Comment
Read more

4.7.6 Sintra

Image
The land of fairytale castles. And money making opportunities. This is, mainly, a dry weather day out, and worthwhile all year round. But you need to be aware that the tourism presence there can be overwhelming. CAUTION Best not visit at the height of summer: even up in the hills, the heat becomes oppressive, the traffic overwhelms the roads, and unless you’re heading for the beaches of Praia Grande and Praia das Maçãs, or maybe going to see coastal villages like Azenhas do Mar, your patience is likely to be sorely tested. Also, please DO NOT rock up there in a hired car, especially if you want to visit the Castle of the Moors or Pena Palace. Why so? Quinta da Regaleira. Busy, eh? And the photo was taken in early April Cos the cops will turn you away. If you don’t want to use the bus services, hail a taxi, order up a TVDE, or get yourself a private driver for the day. This cannot be stressed enough. Also see next paragraph. DON’T FORGET it is from Easter through to November that Sintra...
Post a Comment
Read more

6.2.44 Pravda Craft Mission (Parque das Nações)

Image
Jardim dos Jacarandás 8C Location HERE . Open 1600 to 2200 hours Monday to Thursday, 1400 to 2300 hours Friday to Sunday. So after the original Pravda outlet in Marvila closed, another opening was signposted, but those hoping for another location in Marvila will be disappointed, while those in Parque das Nações, especially that part north of Gare Oriente and the Vasco da Gama centre, will be quietly pleased. Because this bar, opened in July 2026, fills one big gap, bringing craft beer to a quiet and upmarket residential area. It’s just off Alameda dos Oceanos, and not far from Moscavide. One word of warning for those arriving by train at Moscavide station: trains arrive at the platforms on the west side, so you have to cross over the east side tracks, it’s 40 steps up to the footbridge, cos the lifts are broken. AGAIN. No such problem if you arrive by bus - a very short walk from the stops marked Jardim Jacarandás. So what’s on offer? Seating both inside and out, the usual range of Pra...
Post a Comment
Read more

4.3.12 Torre Vasco da Gama

Image
THIS IS A PAY VIEWPOINT Rua Cais das Naus 2 Location HERE . Open from 1000 hours daily; may close between 1730 and 1800 hours; closes at midnight except Thursday to Saturday, when it’s open to 0200 hours. Also known as Babylon 360 (no idea why), this tower rises 145 metres above the Parque das Nações, which makes it almost twice the height of Amoreiras 360, although the latter is located on one of Lisbon’s eight hills. The views from the top, then, are going to be vastly better than riding the cable car, which rises not so far above the shore and has its punters cooped up in what is effectively an airborne Smart Car. You pays your money and makes your choice. Nowadays, there is a hotel, the Myriad by Sana Hotels, between the tower and the riverside. That’s highly relevant when the ride up in the lift, or elevator for you people Stateside, happens. How much? The trip to the top and back down again will set you back €10, which is not so much when the weather is clear and there is the vie...
Post a Comment
Read more

5.1.25 A Valenciana

Image
Rua Marquês de Fronteira 157-163A Location HERE . Open 1100 to 2300 hours, closed Mondays. Takeaway to the left, restaurant to the right Up in Campolide, another outlet that majors in roast chicken, accompanied by that hot sauce which tourists like to call Piri-Piri. The variation served here is clear and almost orange in colour, but don’t let that fool you. It’s hot. As in, go easy, because it’s hot. The broad frontage of the building includes a takeaway side (to the left as you look from the road), and then at the right, the restaurant. Which is not so busy at around 1830 hours, but arrive an hour after that and it’s heaving. Locals, often couples and family groups, mingle with tourists and those from outside Portugal who have chosen to live here. And most of them have come for one thing only: roast chicken with rice and chips. And that hot sauce. Service is good, and prices are keen. How keen? Roast chicken, rice and chips, and a half bottle of red wine comes in at less than €15. Th...
Post a Comment
Read more

5.1.24 Ginjinha Popular

Image
Travessa do Forno 29 Location HERE . Open 0700 to 2300 hours, closed Sundays. THIS OUTLET IS CASH ONLY This is the spot formerly occupied by Girassol, and apparently there was a previous incarnation of Ginjinha Popular round the corner on Rua das Portas de Santa Antão. Bifanas on the go from opening time, decent selection of Pratos do Dia, perfectly acceptable Choco Frito (which is not chocolate, but breaded cuttlefish), inexpensive house wine, and most tellingly, the occasional appearance of significantly-sized groups of tourists being shepherded by knowledgeable local guides. The soup of the day is often Caldo Verde (although it was veg and pasta the day I visited) and good value. Not many punters trying the actual Ginjinha, mind. Straightforward food, decent service, and good value. Metro Restauradores (Linha Azul) or Rossio (Linha Verde); buses at Rossio, Restauradores, Praça da Figueira or Martim Moniz. [ HOME ]
Post a Comment
Read more