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5.1.28 Zé dos Cornos

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Beco dos Surradores 5 Location HERE . Open 1200 to 1600 hours Tuesday to Saturday; 1900 to 2200 hours Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday. On the eastern fringe of the Mouraria. Not so far up the hill of Beco Surradores, so not much climbing. A small space inside with no outside tables, and only open for two evenings each week. CAUTION Get there in good time, preferably before it’s due to open, as the restaurant can get busy, so if you’re not close to the front of the queue when the restaurant opens, you’ll be waiting a while. The menu is mainly grilled Portuguese staples, with that grill on the go from opening time. And right before opening time, the queue is interrogated to find out how many are in each waiting group. That helps the staff best allocate seating in order to get the most people into the limited space. Tables have bread, olives and a pastel de bacalhau per person plus, perhaps, cheese, already laid out. As ever, if you don’t want any of these, say so: I enjoyed...
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4.3.13 Miradouro de Santo Amaro

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Rua Academia Recreativa de Santo Amaro Location HERE . A not too high up but surprisingly enjoyable viewpoint, giving views across the river and a close-up of Ponte 25 de Abril. Also a pleasantly quiet location. It’s either a climb up from Rua Primeiro de Maio along Calçada Santo Amaro, which is quite steep, or a walk down from buses and trams on Rua João Barros, or Rua Jau, along Rua Gil Vicente. If you’re stopping in Santo Amaro for a while, walk back down the hill where there are lots of cafés and restaurants. The viewpoint has at its centre the Capela de Santo Amaro, a small chapel. In front of the chapel is the viewpoint proper, and behind it there is seating, with shading trees. Tram 18, Buses 720, 738, 742 and 760 up in Santo Amaro; Tram 15, Buses 714, 727, 732, 751 and 756 down at the foot of Calçada Santo Amaro. [ HOME ]
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7.2.30 October 2026

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Still no funiculars, and so we start, once more, with the alternatives to using funiculars. Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. PASTEL DE NATA NEWS Pastelaria Aloma has won best Pastel de Nata for the third year running. The opposition included Castro, but it’s worth pointing out that all contenders were not sampled straight from the oven and warm. TAXI AND TVDE NEWS TVDE can now include taxis. Uber and Bolt opposed this change, but it makes the playing field a little more level. So your ride may turn out to be a taxi. ALSO Taxis are now offering a fixed fare from the Airport to central Lisbon, following a series of complaints and revelations concerning less than totally ethical behaviour by some drivers. TUK-TUK NEWS A Tuk-Tuk w...
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6.1.15 Quiosque dos Sabores

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Avenida Dom João II 40 Location HERE . It’s in Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama! On Level 2, which is one floor above street level, at the eastern (river) side of the complex. Self-service and payment when ordering. For those occasions where the summer weather means heading for somewhere with air con, or winter weather means finding somewhere dry, and still with the option of using the outside terrace, a quiosque inside one of the city’s largest and busiest shopping centres. It’s also a good example of a coffee stop and pastelaria inside a large commercial centre not being expensive: a Galão and two Pastéis de Nata , at September 2026 prices, came out at just under €4. At these prices, you’re not going to get waited on, but the self-service and pre-payment is not difficult to understand and navigate. Card payment is accepted, even for small amounts. Service is prompt; you use the shared seating in that part of Level 2. The coffee is good, and the pastéis de nata better than might be exp...
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5.1.27 Restaurante Resina

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Largo do Calvário 1 Location HERE . Open 0900 - 2300 hours; closed Sundays. THIS OUTLET IS CASH ONLY On Largo do Calvário, so almost next door to the LX Factory, and close to Museu da Carris and the Congress Centre, a small and unassuming Portuguese restaurant that celebrates a hundred years of serving up reliable and enjoyable food in 2027. There’s plenty of space inside, but if the weather is half-decent, which is most of the time, there is also space outside. It’s not expensive, the menu is not so extensive but includes staple meat and fish dishes. The Frango Assado is particularly good, served with thinly sliced potatoes that are sliced potatoes, and not crisps (that’s chips for you people Stateside). Most punters opt for one or more small beers or the house wine; water is either the usual still kind, or if it’s sparkling, it’s Pedras. Service is good if a little perfunctory, and if you’re an after meal coffee person, that’s good, too. Trams and buses stop more or less outside the ...
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6.1.14 Santini

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Outlets across the Greater Lisbon area. In the old downtown, try Rua do Carmo (location HERE ). OK it’s not really a coffee shop; the name of the game here is Gelados. Which means Gelato, if you’re used to the Italian form, or simply Ice Cream, if you expect the English version. The first Santini outlet was opened back in 1949 by an Italian family. Nowadays they are all across Greater Lisbon, from the Baixa to shopping centres like that at Amoreiras ( HERE ) to Carcavelos ( HERE ) and out at Cascais ( HERE ). Most of the flavours available to punters are made with full cream milk, with others, like the just amazing lemon, made as a sorbet. The pistachio has bits of pistachio in it, rather than just flavouring. Same with the coconut. And the recommendation is not just formed from my opinion: every visit involves not just sampling the product, enjoyable as that is, but also seeing who else rocks up - lots of parents with children, sometimes brought along by those children, grown ups with...
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4.7.8 Ericeira

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The mainly surfing oriented beach town (location HERE ). What is this seaside town about? That is answered for you on arrival at the bus terminal, where the indoor space, including waiting room, information office and toilets, is shaped like a ship, with the canopy over the bus stands shaped like a huge surfboard. It’s all about the sea, and watersports. Because Ericeira is a World Surfing Reserve. Well out of town to the north west of Lisbon, Ericeira is just about in the Greater Lisbon Metropolitan Area, and so you can use a Navegante card loaded with credit, to use in Zapping mode. How long it takes to get there depends mainly on the bus route you choose. Why so? The 2801, which stops just twice between Campo Grande and Ericeira, takes no more than 40 minutes for the journey. Route 2803, which takes a detour past the palace in Mafra, takes around 55 minutes. And the 2740, which serves Malveira, then makes most of the stops from there to Mafra before heading for Ericeira, takes a lot...
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