Lisbon User Guide

Still no sign of the final report into the accident on the Elevador da Glória, and so we start, once more, with the alternatives to using funiculars. Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. HOWEVER there is one piece of good news on funiculars: the new funicular from Rua dos Lagares to the Miradouro da Graça has now reopened after being inspected and passed safe for travel. TRAM 28 NEWS Once again, the 28 tram is turning back at Camões due to work in Calçada da Estrela. Substitute minibus operating between Camões and Prazeres, and the usual reminder that, on Monday to Friday (but not public holidays) you can get to Prazeres by tram on the 25 from Praça da Figueira, Praça do Comércio and Cais do Sodré. The works are estimated to last ...

Rua Miguel Bombarda 344 Location HERE . Third outlet for the beer from Lviv, this one a little out of town, and outside Zone L, but an option if you got a day ticket that includes trains out to Cascais. A short walk from Parede station on the Linha de Cascais. From the Cascais-bound platform there is an underpass from the east end (CAUTION: steps). From the Cais do Sodré bound platform, just walk off the east end of the platform face and follow the road alongside the railway. In either case, where the underpass comes out is just opposite the bar. And the bonus this outlet has over the ones at Marvila and Estefânia is Plenty Of Outside Seating. A full list of Pravda beers is offered on tap; there are also plenty of bottle and can choices. Good place to chill when the weather is good. Rail services at Parede station. [ HOME ]

Rua do Diário de Notícias 39 Location HERE . You want Fado? Here it is. THIS OUTLET IS CASH ONLY In the middle of the Bairro Alto, this small and intimate space presents Fado more or less every evening. You’re a couple? You’re sharing that table with two other people, who may be a couple, or two solo visitors. Wooden tables, wooden benches, no seats-with-backrests. If you wanted something comfier, you came to the wrong place. Around 30 punters (at most) accommodated. The food is fairly basic, with few changes to the menu over time. Flaming sausage, chick pea and bacalhau salad, Caldo Verde, breaded chicken pieces, Pasteis de Bacalhau, olives, bread basket, all washed down (mainly) with house wine. You can have the menu brought to you in English, but don’t think that this is a tourist only place. Because it isn’t. Prices are not bargain basement cheap, but that isn’t the point: Fado is what you come here to experience, and no Fado experience is free. Get there at or before 1900 hours an...

Rua Nova da Piedade 10 Location HERE . CHAIN OUTLET with several (non-bakery) shops across Lisbon. But this one has the bakery, and is ideally suited to the area. Why so? It’s just below Praça Flores, on a street that leads down to the area around the Palacio São Bento, the Parliament building. There are buses, but only small ones, and lots of passing Smart fortwos. It’s got a seriously artisan vibe, before you throw in an upmarket, but not outrageously expensive, café. CAUTION Portuguese focused coffee people, you can’t get a Galão, but a Latté is similar. The staff are welcoming, offering to bring your order over to the table once you’ve got seated, and it’s ready. ALSO if you’re walking down from Principe Real, the first door you come to is not the one currently in use. Some punters visit just to get take-away; others sit outside at the back. As you might expect from the name, there are Danish-style pastries on offer, and very enjoyable they are too. Buses 19B, 22B and 773. [ HOME ]

Across the river from Cais do Sodré, via the shortest ferry crossing in town, Cacilhas is a ferry terminal, part of the city of Almada, with a tram and bus station next to the ferry berth. There are cafés and restaurants just back from the waterfront, plus a small maritime museum which houses the sailing ship Dom Fernando II e Glória, and submarine S164 (these are pay attractions). But the main attraction for those making the ferry trip over from Cais do Sodré is to visit Santuário de Cristo Rei (Sanctuary of Christ the King), located on a nearby hilltop. View from the terrace This is outside Zone L, so best bet for those using public transport is to get a separate cardboard Navegante ticket, load it with credit, and use it in Zapping mode. CAUTION if you’re on a Lisboa Card, I’m not sure if it includes the ferry, but it certainly doesn’t include the bus from Cacilhas to Cristo Rei. Ferry schedule HERE . Bus 3001 schedule HERE . The bus terminus at Cacilhas is on the east side of the ...

Still no sign of the final report into the accident on the Elevador da Glória, and so we start with the alternatives to using funiculars. Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. Gare Oriente MUSEUM REMINDER 1 The Tile Museum is still closed for repairs. Expect re-opening around June. No word of confirmation yet. BELÉM REMINDER Torre de Belém still closed for repairs. Re-opening date uncertain. Yes, much of the scaffolding has been taken away, but it’s still closed. WEATHER: good news at last. There has been a warm spell, and though that is due to end, temperatures should remain mild. More sunny days to come, but be prepared when the rain makes a visit. Cos it can be heavy. Jardim Sá da Bandeira - the green space on the west side of t...

The beach resort at the end of the line (location HERE ). This is a dry weather day out. Ideal for summer, and the parts of spring and autumn when the sun shines. Get there by suburban train from Estação Cais do Sodré (timetable HERE ). Train travel has no additional cost if you have a valid Lisboa Card. Otherwise, get a cardboard Navegante card loaded with credit, and use it in Zapping mode. Validate the ticket at the boarding station, and arrival station, by using the validation machines provided, or passing through the automatic barriers. As a last resort, visit the ticket office at Cais do Sodré, and buy a ticket from there on the day. Best to board the train at Cais do Sodré outbound, and at Cascais inbound. Get on the platform in good time and secure your seats. The trains load heavily throughout the day, and there will often be standing loads. Leaving the station at Cascais, bear left after the ticket barriers, and exit onto the roundabout. From there, it’s more or less straight...

There are two more outlets for this increasingly popular brand in the Lisbon area: both offer what looks like the same menu as offered at the Bairro Alto and Campo Grande restaurants. So this post just gives the locations, and transport links. CAMPO OURIQUE Rua Ferreira Borges 47, location HERE . Tram 25 and 28; Buses 709 and 774. AVENIDAS NOVAS Avenida Visconte de Valmor 64A, location HERE . CAUTION steps up into the restaurant from street level, and steps down from the restaurant to the toilets. Buses 716, 726 nearby, also 52B and westbound 713, 742 on Avenida Miguel Bombarda (eastbound 713 and 742 two blocks further south, on Avenida Duque de Ávila). Nearest Metro probably Sandanha, but a bit of a trek. [ HOME ]

THE USUAL REMINDER Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. The sun is shining once more MUSEUM REMINDER 1 The Tile Museum is still closed for repairs. Expect re-opening around June. MUSEUM REMINDER 2 The Gulbenkian Museum has been closed for repair work, but should re-open this week BELÉM REMINDER Torre de Belém still closed for repairs. Re-opening date uncertain. WEATHER NEWS The storms have, for the moment, passed. HOWEVER if you are travelling by train, some lines are still closed, if only partially. Latest news on the CP website HERE . SAD NEWS Padaria Patriacal , the pastelaria with the Art Nouveau interior near Principe Real and Miradouro São Pedro Alcântara, has closed. It did re-open after New Year, but now the lights have go...

Location HERE . Website HERE . Open from 1030 to 1730 hours. Closed Mondays. Looking out from the roundhouse The museum is over 100km, or more than 60 miles, away from central Lisbon, in the town of Entroncamento (the name literally means “ Junction ”). You should allow a full day for a visit. The best way to get there is by train from either Santa Apolónia, or Oriente. All Intercidades trains passing through Entroncamento stop there. This is the most comfortable, and quickest, option, but you must choose your trains beforehand, and stick to them. Your tickets will be train specific. Timetable for North Line Alfa and Intercidades trains HERE . There is also a regular service of Regional trains, which take longer, but you can come back on any Regional train. There are no seat reservations, and the trains can load very heavily, even at what might seem quiet times. If you choose this option, get on board at Santa Apolónia if you can. The service is more frequent on weekdays. Timetable for...

Rua da Alegria 20 Location HERE . Either walk down the hill from Principe Real, or up the hill from Avenida da Liberdade. Reassuringly like the average small-town-in-the-UK tandoori restaurant. The Chicken Madras could be a little spicier, but that isn’t unusual among curry houses in Portugal. Starters are well presented and good portions, and mains have familiar accompaniments such as Pilau Rice or Naan. Having a beer with your meal is more expensive than might be expected, at €5.50 for a Caneca of commodity pilsner, something you get for just €2.50 at a place like the Bhetgat, near Intendente Metro. The site is long-by-narrow, which may mean there is no-one at the door from the street to welcome you. Keep on walking - and you will get to the main restaurant area. Service was good. Tram 24, Buses 19B, 758 and 773 up at Principe Real, while down on the Avenida da Liberdade, it’s Metro Avenida (Linha Azul), plus buses 709, 711, 722, 732, 736 and 744. [ HOME ]

THE USUAL REMINDER Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. MUSEUM REMINDER The Tile Museum is still closed for repairs. Expect re-opening around June. BELÉM REMINDER Torre de Belém still closed for repairs. Re-opening date uncertain. TRAM 28 NEWS The 28 has been restored to its full route, although it was later in the week than advertised. Best location for getting on board and getting a seat is at Prazeres, NOT Martim Moniz. At Prazeres, there are no hour-plus waits, and no desperate TukTuk pilots aggressively touting for business. Get there by 25 tram (weekdays only), or by 709 bus from Rossio. HOWEVER the works in Calçada da Estrela have only been paused, and so will return, at which point the 28 will, once again, have to turn bac...

Location HERE . The Palace, Basilica and Convent are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The façade ... One of the largest Royal Palaces. at more than 40,000 square metres, this was the last such location in Portugal to be inhabited by the country’s now-defunct Royal family. It was from here, on 5th October 1910, that Manuel II was chauffeured to the port at nearby Ericeira, where he boarded the Royal yacht, set sail for Gibraltar, thence to England, and into exile. Built at the order of Dom João V, the Palace took 13 years to build, and was financed mainly by the proceeds of exploiting gold and diamond reserves in what was then colonial Brazil. At one point, more than 40,000 workers were employed in its construction; 1,383 died before it was completed. When first built, there was no town opposite the Palace; that came much later. Even with the growth of the town of Mafra, the Palace dwarfs all before it. A visit will take two to three hours to take in the sheer scale of the building, and ap...

Location HERE . The westernmost point of continental Europe, situated just off the main road that links Sintra and Cascais. The first lighthouse began operation in 1772, and sits close to the edge of cliffs well over 500 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. There is a small visitor centre, but not much else - a destination for dry and not so windy days. The marker ... The wooded terrain associated with much of mainland Portugal is absent from this area; it’s a slightly wild part of the coast. A stone column marks the spot, telling visitors that this is indeed the westernmost point of Europe. Also prominent is a notice warning those visitors not to cross the fence, along with several of the tourist brains trust doing just that. DON’T: one slip and you potentially have a one way ticket into a wooden box. Others want to be stupid? That’s their business. ... the lighthouse ... How to get there? From Sintra or Cascais by frequent Carris Metropolitana buses: the 1253 departs from a stop at the nor...

On a longer visit to Lisbon? Half a day, or even a full day, to spare? Here are museums, landmarks, and other places to visit and enjoy. Lighthouse at Cabo da Roca Cabo da Roca Royal Palace of Mafra National Railway Museum Cascais Cacilhas and Cristo Rei [ HOME ]

TRAM NEWS Tram 12 has now been restored to service, as the resurfacing works in the Rua dos Cavaleiros have been completed. But the big news is … Tram 28 will return to its full route next week (January 26, maybe 27). The works in the Calçada da Estrela have been completed. So no more turning back at Camões, along with the substitute minibus between there and Prazeres running only every 25 minutes. RESTAURANT AND BAR NEWS Little Indiia , on Largo Santos, has closed. Trobadores, on Calçada de São Francisco, has had a temporary closure earlier this month, but is definitely open once more. Food and beer are as good as ever. HOWEVER, CHECK opening hours before visiting - they are closed Mondays. METRO ACCESSIBILITY PROBLEMS Many Metro stations are marked on the system map as being accessible. HOWEVER, the lift status pages on the Metro website show that many are not. If, for instance, the concourse to surface lift is out of service, that station is not fully accessible. ALSO many escalato...

Happy New Year! THE USUAL REMINDER Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. Also, the new funicular that takes you from Rua Lagares up to Graça has been suspended. You can get up to Graça either by tram 28, or if you don’t fancy the crush, by 734 or 10B minibus. MUSEUM REMINDER The Tile Museum is still closed for repairs. Expect re-opening around June. BELÉM REMINDER Torre de Belém still closed for repairs. Re-opening date uncertain. TRAM NEWS The 12 tram has been suspended due to resurfacing works in the Rua dos Cavaleiros. No date for resumption of service (yet). AIRPORT METRO CAUTION Lift from arrival platform to concourse is out of service, as is the escalator from the arrival platform to the next level (the other two escalators u...

Rua Tomás da Anunciação 88B Location HERE . Open: Monday to Thursday 1500-2300; Friday and Saturday 1600-Midnight; closed Sundays. It’s up in Campo de Ourique! In the grid pattern of streets north of the tram route, an area with a seriously high incidence of the Smart fortwo, is Lisbon’s smallest craft beer outlet. Less inside space than AMO, and indeed less inside space than the Pravda Craft Mission outlet in Marvila. Some tables outside. So what’s on offer? Five taps with a regularly changing offering, backed up by lots of bottles and cans. Always an IPA on the go. And what about food? Indeed, what about food. There is a pizza and calzone menu on offer, but it does not come from this bar. You place an order, it is phoned through, and then it is collected from a nearby restaurant and delivered to your table. The cost is added to your bill. Seems to work OK. Buses 701 and 774 nearby; Tram 25 and 28, plus bus 709, down on Rua Saraiva de Carvalho. [ HOME ]

Passeio do Tejo Location HERE . Open 24 hours. Just to emphasise the work that has gone in to redevelop the area around Gare Oriente, at the north end of Parque das Nações is this riverside park, with its broad paths, greenery, boardwalks and observation decks. It confirms that Expo 98 was, mainly, an urban regeneration project. Behind the park are low-rise apartment blocks, part of a quiet residential area, well apart from all the retail opportunities near Oriente. It’s been well thought out, and so property here costs Serious Money. Another plus is that, although the Airport is close by, the orientation of the runway means the park is away from aircraft noise. Even the Ponte Vasco da Gama, which borders the area at its northern end, does not generate intrusive noise. Also, although the river is navigable at this point, and the main channel is close to the shore, there is not so much traffic. So the boardwalk observation decks are mainly to allow visitors to see the proliferation of b...

THE USUAL REMINDER Don’t slog up those hills just because the funiculars have been suspended. Minibus 51E gives an alternative to the Santa Justa lift, and an alternative to the Glória funicular; Bairrobus 19B gives an alternative to the Lavra funicular; Bairrobus 22B gives an alternative to the Bica funicular. Also, the new funicular that takes you from Rua Lagares up to Graça has been suspended. You can get up to Graça either by tram 28, or if you don’t fancy the crush, by 734 or 10B minibus. MUSEUM NEWS The Tile Museum is closed for repair work until well into next year. Target date for reopening is June 2026. TRAM 28 NEWS The 28 is still turning back at Camões, with a substitute minibus running from there to Prazeres. The 25 is a good weekday alternative - catch it in Praça do Comércio or on the Rua da Prata, just south of Praça da Figueira. Hopefully the 28 will be back on its full route in the New Year. BELÉM NEWS Torre de Belém remains closed, and will be for some months yet....