5.1.22 Pateo 13

Calçadinha de Santo Estevão 13

Location HERE.

Open 1200 to 1430 and 1900 to 2230 hours; closed Mondays.

THIS OUTLET IS CASH ONLY

CAUTION The nearest ATM is a Euronet, which those not wanting to be hit with extra charges should avoid. As always, withdraw cash using a Multibanco, and be prepared for those situations where you need it.


At the lower end of the Alfama, and in a pedestrian only area, which means those of you who get chauffeured to restaurants can’t be dropped off at the front door. Not to worry, it’s only a few steps up.

Eating outside? A unique Alfama location? Sardines on the grill in Summer? This place ticks all those boxes. HOWEVER it’s very Portuguese traditional, which means Peixe (Fish), Carne (Meat), and not much else.

Many of those choosing Peixe are here for the sardines, which, like the Bacalhau, Sea Bass and Bream, are grilled on the outside range right in front of the punters. The kitchen adds potatoes and salad vegetables like cucumber and tomato, and there’s your main course.


Maybe add a bowl of soup with bread and olives to start off, accompany it with wine or a caneca of commodity beer, and that’s all there is to it - an ideal Alfama evening out. CAUTION remember that, as it’s usually outside, those at other tables are allowed to smoke, even if you don’t like it.

Try and visit on a day when there is a cooling breeze; you get the cooling effect, the aroma of sardines grilling is hard to miss, and cigarette smoke dissipates rather more easily.

Buses 10B, 13B and 734 nearby, 728, 735 and 759 over on the Avenida Infante Dom Henrique. Not far to walk to and from Sul e Sueste and Praça do Comércio.

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