Lisbon User Guide

Parada Alto de São João Location HERE . Open every day, but only from 0900 to 1700 (1800 in summer) hours. Also known as the “ eastern cemetery ”, and until 1998 sharing one distinction with Prazeres cemetery, that there was also a tram terminus outside the main gate. Route 17, formerly starting from Belém, but latterly cut back to Martim Moniz, was the last tram route in Lisbon to be abandoned. This former feature gets a mention because, if you’re staying in or near the old Downtown, you’ll find that there is no direct bus route. From Amoreiras, Alameda, Saldanha, Roma-Areeiro station you’re fine, but not the Downtown. Like Prazeres cemetery, this site opened in 1833, and for the same reason: to provide burial space for those who had succumbed to the cholera outbreak. There are small mausoleums ( Jazigos ) for more important families, individual graves for lesser mortals, and a long wall of remembrance for those cremated. Portugal’s first crematorium opened here in 1925, and after a l...

Praça São João Bosco 568 Location HERE . Open every day, but only from 0900 to 1700 (1800 in summer) hours. Ever wondered what was behind those gates opposite the Prazeres tram terminus? Indeed, ever wondered why so many tram and bus routes have their termini there? Here is one of Lisbon’s grandest, largest and most opulent cemeteries. The grand scale of the site is underscored by the offering of guided tours, using what looks like a stretched electric TukTuk. Because there is a lot of ground to cover if you want to see it all. Beyond the entrance gates is the cemetery’s chapel, itself larger than many outlying towns’ churches. Around and beyond that are row upon row of mausoleums, mostly the resting places of the city’s better-off families. Opened in 1833, in the wake of a devastating cholera epidemic, and passed into the care of Lisbon Council not many years after that, Prazeres cemetery was known as the “ western cemetery ” for many years, to distinguish it from the “ eastern cemete...

Rua da Ilha do Pico 1A Location HERE . Closed Mondays. A second outlet for the people from Lviv. And the first impression is that it’s very much like the first outlet. But with more room inside, which would not be such a difficult thing. Not the same as this, but similar That’s very useful, as there is definitely no room outside, not with the narrow pavement, and other retail nearby. There is the usual range of Pravda beers on tap, including Lviv IPA (which still feels a lot stronger than the advertised 4%), and Facet session pale. The fridges are well stocked, mainly with cans. Snacks, like crisps (chips for those from North America) and nuts, are the only food offering. Just the one toilet (bathroom if you prefer), with the term “ throne ” redefined - you’ll have to visit to see for yourselves. It’s a short walk from LX Brewery, and another short walk to Flor de Lupolo. Or a longer walk, or short ride on a 767 bus, to Gomes Freire, and AMO Brewery. The determined pub crawler can fit ...

Calçada da Ajuda Location HERE . THIS IS A PAY ATTRACTION. But not expensive at €2 per person, and half price for seniors. Like your own secret garden. Pass through the entry on Calçada da Ajuda, and the city traffic is left behind. Lisbon’s oldest botanical garden opens out in front of you, its fountains, statuary and walkways laid out in perfect symmetry. Sure, there are a few frayed edges, and maybe not every species of plant is labelled, but these are minor details. The main garden is overlooked by a terrace at its north side; both have ample space for visitors to sit and chill. Some of the benches have tree cover, always welcome in the summer months. There are toilet facilities (bathrooms for you North American people), but a word of warning - CAUTION two steps down, and the light may not be as good as outside the building. There are separate facilities for the disabled. The terrace also has a drinking fountain. HOWEVER, the café, which was there in times past, is not there now. W...

Trams - same as in June, the roadworks in Rua do Forno do Tijolo continue, so the 28 cannot run its usual route between Martim Moniz and Graça. But one big change - the viewing platform atop the Elevador de Santa Justa has reopened. A new and higher guardrail has been installed, but a maximum of just 20 people is allowed up there at one time. ALSO, it will cost you €5 per person to access. That’s in addition to all other transport costs. AND the payment can only be made by bank card. View from the top of the Elevador de Santa Justa Access to the viewing deck is via a spiral staircase, and not for the faint hearted. The staircase is on the same side of the lift as the cabin exit. When I visited, both lift cabins were operating, and the queue (line if you like) to go up was not so long. Maybe not for long. SCAMS 1: anyone offering what they claim are drugs out there on the street is almost certainly not offering drugs. Don’t fall for it: it’s just bags of mixed herbs. Maybe some punters ...