Lisbon User Guide

Avenida Infante Dom Henrique 9 Location HERE . Open daily from 1200 hours until midnight. The newest outlet for Ground Burger, opened in October 2024, is across the main drag outside Santa Apolónia station, among a line of refurbished warehouses on the Tejo waterfront. Food menu offerings are very similar to the São Sebastião site. But the tap list has 20 choices - twice as many. And the style used to display them to punters gives away the link between this chain and BREW. Chiado, which isn’t such a bad thing, given the latter is a good place to stop off for a beer. For those worried about having to cross that main road, DON’T. There is a subway giving access to the Metro, and you can use that. Escalators at the station side, but unfortunately, only steps at the warehouses side. As with the S. Sebastião site, it’s not bargain basement cheap, but with the same very-good-to-excellent service, it’s good value for money. More seating at this outlet, with one caution: the toilets are upstai...

Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar 148A Location HERE . Open daily from 1200 hours until midnight. Not far from the northernmost access to São Sebastião Metro, and with the bonus of cover from summer sun and winter rain for most of the distance to the front door, this is the original Ground Burger outlet for a chain celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2025. Note also that there are outlets for this brand which won’t be reviewed here - the Airstream trailer in Belém, and the branch in the Time Out market - as they don’t have craft beer on tap. If you’re a burger aficionado, this place, and the newly opened outlet opposite Santa Apolónia station, should be on your radar. Proclaiming itself to be “ Old School ”, “ Authentic American ”, and “ All made in-house fresh daily ”, the menu offers lots of burger options (12 of them), with many punters expressing a willingness to make a return visit. From a personal point of view, the tap list is decent, with ten craft offerings, and lots of cans ...

Praça das Amoreiras 30 Location HERE . Not far from two locations that spend most of their days choked with traffic - the area around Amoreiras shopping centre, and Largo do Rato - is this peaceful oasis where the only part of city life that intrudes is yet more of that aircraft noise. Well laid out gardens, a Quiosque at one end, and a children’s playground close by. Separated from Rua das Amoreiras by the remains of the aqueduct, a barrier which gives the gardens a little bit of seclusion. Some steps if you approach from the Rato end of the gardens; to avoid these, walk up to the end where the aqueduct crosses the road, where it’s step free. Built into one of the aqueduct’s arches is Real Capel da Nossa Senhora de Monserrate, a small white chapel. Lots of places to sit and chill, both wooden benches, and the colder-even-in-summer stone variety. People walk their dogs; some walk others’ dogs. Workers take time out from their nine to fives to grab snack lunches. Others meet for a chat ...

Largo de São Julião Location HERE . A museum for money? It’s more the museum for the Banco de Portugal, illustrating the Bank’s role in assisting the transition from the Estado Novo to the Third Republic, which brought with it a return to democracy, and then guiding Portugal’s entry to the EU, and single currency. Some of the graphics and stats on display stand out: today, there is more or less zero illiteracy among Portugal’s population. But in 1970, the illiteracy rate stood at around 25%, and on average, citizens enjoyed no more than two to four years’ full time education. It was this kind of cost cutting that enabled the Estado Novo to balance the books, even during the colonial wars. One visual which EU and Euro haters will not find easy is that showing inflation in Portugal, alongside the country’s GDP. In the late 1970s, and 1980s, inflation was persistent and GDP low. Since Portugal became part of the EU, and then European Monetary Union (adopting the Euro), inflation has been ...

Getting Around - Trams: blinked and you missed it. Tram 28 was briefly restored to its full route earlier this month, after the works at the lower end of Calçada da Estrela were completed. The 25 was cut back from P. Figueira to Cais do Sodré at the same time. HOWEVER, the works in Calçada da Estrela are starting up again, so from the 15th, the 28 once again turns back at Camões, with the 25 returning to P. Figueira. No timescale for completion (as yet). A new tram in Praça do Comércio FARES INCREASE Carris and other public transport providers have revised fares in operation from January 1. That’s revised, as in increased, although the increases are relatively modest. Details in a PDF table HERE . Restaurants and bars may also be increasing prices at New Year. Food cost inflation is still working its way through the economy. Padrão dos Descobrimentos closed for works, including renovation, in mid-December. There is no date for reopening as yet. This means the observation deck at the ...

Largo São Domingo de Benfica 1 Location HERE . THIS IS A PAY ATTRACTION Closed Sundays. At the rear of Palácio Marquesas da Fronteira, which sits at the northern edge of Monsanto Park, is a classical “ Box Garden ”, which should be better known, as it was a location used for On Her Majesty’s Secret Service , the sixth official Bond film, and the only outing in the lead role for George Lazenby. You’ll most likely not have too much company for an early afternoon stroll around the formally laid out space, which is well away from the city noise, although you will hear approaching aircraft, and some rumbling from the nearby rail line and main road. CAUTION The paths exhibit various stages of wear and tear, and are often uneven, as are some of the steps. There is a variety of statuary, but most attention focuses on the artificial water feature at one side of the garden, known as the Knight’s Tank, and the terrace above it, known as the Kings’ Gallery. The Knight’s Tank has a variety of inhab...

Travessa Monte do Carmo 19 Location HERE . Open 1800 to 2200 hours on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Tiny barbecue restaurant just below Rua da Escola Politécnica, with just eight seats inside, plus two more at an outside table, weather permitting. Some of those visiting who are staying in the area opt for takeaways. The grill has ribs, chicken and sausages on the go more or less all the time. Side dishes, including rice and veg., are available, as well as nibbles like olives. All is kept together by the owner, who is also the cook, and she treats customers almost like family. I got a small portion of olives included in my order, at no extra charge. An attempt to give a tip was politely declined! The chicken, ribs and sausage were marvellous. Spicy dressing is included, at the strength you specify (it’s good). Service is excellent. Why some visitors give poor reviews, and they occasionally do, is beyond me. Turn up at 1800 sharp, or be prepared to wait. Very good value, and t...

Avenida da Índia 136 Location HERE . Closed Mondays. The National Coach Museum showcases a variety of horse-drawn coaches, and even one or two sedan chairs, that have been used to transport a very small percentage of the population over the centuries. The Oceans' Coach. With just a little gold on view Those privileged enough to use the coaches displayed, or perhaps that should be endure rather than use, were Royalty, nobility, senior members of the Catholic Church, their families, and very few others. How slow these were is emphasised when we discover that, in its last days, the mail coach running between Lisbon and Porto took well over 30 hours to cover the distance, and simply that the service ended when the railway came. Some of the larger coaches, especially in the years following the discovery of Brazil and exploitation of its natural resources, have an OTT amount of gold decoration. This has to be seen to be believed. The main exhibits are laid out around the First Floor of t...

Branches across Lisbon. Most recently sampled outlet at Avenida Duque de Ávila 32. Location HERE Open every day. This branch did not have indoor seating, which could be a problem on cold mornings, or when it rains. Some outlets do have it, though. The coffee was good, but the subject of debate when mention is made of Manteigaria is their Pastéis de Nata. So are theirs the best? And the answer is that, personal opinion only, they aren’t, but they are rather different to those you will be served at places like Pastéis de Belém. How so? Well, the pastry doesn’t do the “ crisp and flake ” in the same way, and the filling is slightly less sweet. Did I get part of a bad batch? Doubtful. The person serving me sought out a sample from a tray that had just emerged from the oven. So they were nice and warm, as you would expect from being served the equivalent in the café at Pastéis de Belem. So not better or worse - just different. [ HOME ]

Campo Grande Location HERE . Unfenced green space between the southbound and northbound carriageways of Campo Grande. But the rumble of traffic fades into the background here, although there is noticeable aircraft noise - in this part of north Lisbon, you are not far from the Airport. The park, named for the father of Portuguese democracy, who was twice Prime Minister, and served two terms as President, has a lake in addition to tree cover, wide paths for walkers and joggers, and plenty of places to sit and chill. It is not so far from the downtown, with direct Metro and bus links. There is a children’s playground, and a dog park. The site is accessible. There are restaurants in the park, including a hideous McDonalds, a quick view of which causes the thought to enter that the planning application was not scrutinised in too much detail. Because of the aircraft noise issue, the park south of Avenida do Brasil is not recommended. The planes pass directly overhead, casting giant fleeting ...

Campo Grande 245 Location HERE . Closed Mondays. Open 1000 to 1800 hours. Accessed via the entrance to Museu de Lisboa. After passing through the building and out into its garden, turn left and then left again. Ideally visited after the Museu Bordalo Pinheiro, which is across the other side of Campo Grande. If you visited Castelo de São Jorge and liked the peacocks, well, the garden behind Museu de Lisboa, which you have to traverse to get to this garden, has more of them. It’s not a big garden, but is worthwhile, even so. That’s down to the oversize ceramic animals and even insects you’ll find there. Frogs clustered around a water fountain, a huge ceramic wasp, larger than life sea creatures, an all too realistic alligator, snails, and lots more. Even better is that, for much of the day, there will be few other visitors. You could even have the garden to yourselves. The art of Bordallo Pinheiro, the master ceramicist, has its full range on view here. Somehow, the traffic on both sides...

Rua da Escola Politécnica 58 Location HERE . Open seven days a week. THIS IS A PAY ATTRACTION You can get tickets just for the Jardim Botânico, or combine the visit with one to the adjacent Museu Nacional de História Natural e da Ciência. Entering from R. Escola Politécnica, one of the most consistently traffic-choked thoroughfares of the city, all becomes peaceful and relatively quiet. The term “ relatively ” is used because you cannot shut out all the cityscape (including the inevitable cranes, because somewhere there are always Obras, and aircraft noise, because that’s how most tourists arrived). Nonetheless, this is a welcome oasis of calm. Tall palm trees overlook the paths, some very tall indeed. Around 1500 species of plants can be found in the gardens. There are water features and plenty of places to sit and relax. CAUTION the gardens follow a steep slope down from the entrance, and many of the paths have acquired a green tinge, suggesting they may be slippery when wet. Some pa...

Rua de Santa Caterina Location HERE . Best approached, on foot, from Largo Calhariz, by the top of the Elevador da Bica. Go a few metres west, and head down Rua Marechal Saldanha. That bollard in the middle of the road, which can be lowered only by those with legitimate access needs, is why you don’t see TVDEs and TukTuks at this viewpoint. Statue of the Adamastor Access then via steps by Quiosque do Adamastor, or step free by heading a short way down Rua de Santa Catarina and taking a sharp left. View over Cais do Sodré, the nearby docks, and over to Cristo Rei and Ponte 25 de Abril. Lots of places to sit and chill, but as it’s mainly south facing, not too much refuge from the sun during the summer months. Obligatory Very Large Statue. Being south facing is good in the winter months, as it stays comfortably warm, even during those short days. There are, apparently, live music performances. There is that Quiosque, along with rooftop bars and restaurants, close by. Visit this viewpoint ...