Lisbon User Guide

Travessa do Olival a Santos Location HERE . Combination of viewpoint and green space (Jardim 9 de Abril) overlooking the Cais da Rocha area. You can get there by climbing lots of steps from down on the Avenida 24 de Julho, and they include one distinctive staircase, but better to approach from Rua Presidente Arriaga, as doing the climb includes, if you got there by bus or tram, crossing Avenida 24 de Julho. The garden has another of those Very Big And Very Old Trees at its heart, along with some statuary and lots of benches to sit and chill. As it’s south facing, early afternoon on a sunny day can feel pleasantly warm, even in the winter months. Plenty of tree cover, but not much shelter if it rains. High enough up to be able to see over the tops of buildings down at Cais da Rocha, the views go from the eastern end of Alcântara Docks round to Ponte 25 de Abril. Most people snacking and drinking bring their own food and drink, but there is also a restaurant called Catch Me Lisboa at the...

Praça da Estrela 12 Location HERE . Open from 0700 hours until midnight (!). Opposite the Basilica da Estrela, a park that is larger than first apparent, for those entering from Praça da Estrela. If you’ve arrived on a bus coming from Rato, you’ll already have figured that one out, as their route goes around the northern and western perimeter. There are the usual water features, statuary, two cafés, a kids’ park, and lots of walking routes, mostly with plenty of seating, and even shade. Popular with joggers, and also those walking dogs (as in groups of dogs). But never seems to be busy. Maybe do this before or after visiting the Basilica da Estrela. Tram 25 and 28 at the south side, plus buses 67B, 713 and 773. Bus 774 covers for Tram 25 at weekends. Buses 709, 713, 720 and 738 at the north side of the park. A new Metro station (Estrela, natch) is being built nearby. [ HOME ]

Avenida de Berna 45 Location HERE . Open between 0900 and 2000 hours, maybe longer (CHECK beforehand). The gardens around the Gulbenkian Museum and the Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian. Free to walk in and wander around. You can combine a visit with also visiting the museum, or just go on a sunny afternoon to chill. There is an amphitheatre, lakes, walking trails, and a pleasant café which calls itself the Restaurant Ice Gourmet. This has indoor seating and an outdoor terrace. Usually, all of the gardens around the museums are open to visitors, but on occasion, maintenance work, building work and site alterations have to take place. Steps, but no steep ones. Very popular with office workers, other city residents, and visitors of all ages. Metro Praça de Espanha or São Sebastião. Buses 716, 726 and 756 on Avenida de Berna, 52B, 726 and 746 on Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar, 52B, 713 and 742 on Rua Marquês de Fronteira. [ HOME ]

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This section of the Lisbon User Guide provides more detail on some of the previous six sections - like on the 1974 Revolution, the ending of the country’s monarchy in 1910, post-Revolutionary developments and politics in Portugal, and current events that may impact on those visiting the country. It’s also where you can find The Blog, which tracks changes to the Lisbon User Guide, tells you about restaurants and bars which have closed, or are new openings, changes in the public transport offer, upcoming new content on the Lisbon User Guide, and whatever else I decide might help visitors. 7.1 The Detail is in preparation. 7.2 The Blog [ HOME ]

Getting Around : arriving or departing by train - there is a new timetable in force, effective from December 15. CP website HERE . Getting Around : Trams - the current state of play. Recently, tram 28 was cut back to a shuttle between Martim Moniz and Graça during resurfacing works in Rua das Escolas Gerais. The 12 was restored to its original route as a circular service via São Tomé, with the terminus moved from Praça da Figueira to Martim Moniz. Each move between the latter two points had to be supervised by Police, as the street immediately east of P. Figueira is, at present, one-way - the other way. This arrangement has now come to an end, as the resurfacing works in Escolas Gerais have been completed. The 28 is now running from Martim Moniz to Largo de Camões. It cannot run further west because of roadworks at the lower end of the Calçada da Estrela. The 12 is running Martim Moniz - S. Tomé - Camões, returning via Graça. Those wanting to ride the tram to Estrela and Prazeres can u...

Avenida Almirante Reis Location HERE . Around three hectares of grass either side of Avenida Almirante Reis, this is an Estado Novo project completed around 1940. It is named for Portugal’s first King. At its west end is the Avenida Manuel da Maia and the Instituto Superior Técnico: from the road, you get a good view of the whole park. View across the Alameda looking east Towards its east end is the monumental Fonte Luminosa, the fountains that provide a light show at night. Beyond (and above) them is a small garden giving views back across the park. There is a quiosque close to Av. Almirante Reis, and cafés around the perimeter. Not a great deal of shade in the summer months: some visitors just sit out on the grass; many bring their own picnics. From one end of the park, it is sometimes easy to forget that a busy main road bisects the space. The fountains Metro Alameda (Linha Verde and Linha Amarela, beware broken lifts) exits on to Av. Almirante Reis. Buses 708, 717, 718, 720 and 735...

Avenida João Crisóstomo 7 Location HERE . Also fronts on to Rua Dona Filipa de Vilhena and Avenida Duque de Ávila Not far from the busy thoroughfare of Avenida da República at Saldanha, and a complete contrast to it. Some tree cover, a Quiosque at the south side, places to sit and relax. Popular with office workers, students, families, and a meeting place - it’s easy to get to from much of central Lisbon. There is even an entrance to Saldanha Metro station on the Avenida Duque de Ávila, though this is to the Linha Vermelha, and you have some walking to do in order to reach the Linha Amarela. If the weather turns bad, just walk along the Avenida Duque de Ávila towards Saldanha and there is a selection of cafés on the north side of the street. Those who look at the Técnico Innovation Center at the west side of the park and conclude that it looks like a tram shed are not wrong: it was a tram shed, until Carris abandoned much of the network in the 1980s and 1990s. Metro Saldanha (Linha Am...

Campo dos Mártires da Pátria Location HERE . Ey up cock Just above the downtown, a short uphill bus ride from the Baixa and Martim Moniz, or up the Lavra funicular and a short walk. Ducks and chickens roam around, making the occasional noise off. There is a dog park. Lots of tree cover in the summer months, lots of places to sit and relax. A coffee and ice cream shop just off the park, and a well attended restaurant just inside the perimeter. If central Lisbon is a bit too busy and noisy for you, this place is not so far away. Popular with family groups and office workers. Well connected by public transport to lots of nearby destinations. Buses 17B, 19B, 723, 730, 760 and 767. [ HOME ]

Praça do Principe Real Location HERE . Just above the Bairro Alto, an escape from the choking city traffic, with trees giving shade and plenty of places to sit. Two Quiosques at the north-east side of the site, and pride of place going to a huge Cypress tree which is estimated to be at least 120 years old, and maybe as old as 280. Pop-up markets appear from time to time, selling all kinds of artisan produce. Handicrafts, organic produce, cosmetics all feature. Add it to a tour of the old downtown if you have the time. Tram 24; Buses 19B, 22B, 758 and 773. [ HOME ]

Alameda Cardeal Cerejeira Location HERE . Effectively an extension of Parque Eduardo VII, across Alameda Cardeal Cerejeira from the viewpoint and April 25, 1974 memorial. Named for the greatest of Fadistas. Lots of places to sit, relax and picnic. Also a viewpoint, giving a similar range of views to the balcony of the park. You can watch the procession of inclusive tour buses, TVDEs and TukTuks passing along Alameda Cardeal Cerejeira, while taking in the view all the way down to the river. There is some inevitable aircraft noise, though. Metro Parque or São Sebastião, Buses 713 and 742 on Rua Marquês de Fronteira; the stop is Palácio Justiça. [ HOME ]

Location (visitor centre) HERE . Note that Alto da Serafina is covered in Viewpoints, HERE . A little history first: the Serra de Monsanto (the name has no connection to the better-known conglomerate) to the west of central Lisbon had been farmed rather too intensively in the early part of the last Century, with the result that by the early 30s, it was practically bare. The idea to reforest the area came from Duarte Pacheco, and if you take the 711 or 723 bus up to the park, you will cross the bridge bearing his name, the Viaduto Duarte Pacheco, before the long climb up to Cruz Oliveiras, so steep that the driver has to kick down the automatic transmission twice. This road is part of Portugal’s first Motorway, dating, yes, from the mid 1940s. Torre Comunicações Altice The detail work, including recreation areas, was down to Keil do Amaral, who did the detail for Parque Eduardo VII. Then, the real hard work, clearing the site and planting the trees, was done by soldiers and prisoners, w...

From parks and gardens to whole forests, and all within the Lisbon city area. Mainly free to view and open all day every day, but there are one or two pay sites. Also note that some have been covered in The Old Downtown: Parque Eduardo VII Jardim do Torel Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara . Some green spaces have been covered in Viewpoints: Alto da Serafina Miradouro da Rocha Conde de Óbidos BIGGEST GREEN SPACE OF ALL Parque Florestal de Monsanto AROUND THE CITY Jardim Amália Rodrigues Jardim do Principe Real Campo Mártires Pátria Jardim do Arco do Cego Alameda Dom Afonso Henriques Jardim da Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian Jardim da Estrela Jardim Botânico de Lisboa Jardim das Amoreiras FURTHER OUT FROM THE CENTRE Jardim Bordallo Pinheiro Jardim Mário Soares Jardim do Palácio Marquesas da Fronteira Parque Recreativo dos Moinos de Santana Quinta Real das Necessidades Alameda Keil do Amaral [ HOME ]

Praça da Figueira 18B Location HERE . On the south-west corner of P. Figueira. There is a second outlet in Belém. Part of Lisbon’s social fabric since 1829. Another place that claims its Pastéis de Nata are Very Good Indeed, honestly. They do take-away as well as eat in. The café is upstairs, so a flight of steps to consider. Also claims to have introduced Bolo Rei (literally “ King's Cake ”) to Portugal. What that? It’s the Portuguese version of Christmas Cake, with a similar list of ingredients. Every supermarket chain worth its reputation offers this in the run-up to Christmas. And so do most Pastelarias. Very elegant, waiter service, proper tablecloths, you get the picture. But not expensive. Nor does it seem to attract hordes of tourists, although the staff will speak to you in English. And Gregg Wallace would love it. Perhaps. That’s because Ladies Of A Certain Age descend on the place at lunchtime, maybe for actual lunch (like any good Pastelaria, they also do a breakfast an...

Rua do Conde de Redondo 70 Location HERE . 24 taps, and leaning towards Pilsner, Sour + Fruit Beer, with a smattering of Belgian, Wit, IPA and others. The first thing that a scan of the place reveals is that there are a lot of people around, front of house, behind the bar, and indeed, in the kitchen, although the menu is not so extensive. One consequence of that is the service is good, attentive, and perhaps a little too keen to encourage you to order food, and second guess your next beer choice. On the beer side, the Pilsner choices were enjoyable, but pride of place went to a glass of Sierra Nevada Big Little Thing, an IPA with a full 9% ABV and a memorable taste profile. Wallop! Default “ small ” size glass is usually 35cl, which is not too little, and enough to appreciate what is being put in front of you. It was the food part that brought the highs and lows. Pickled olive tapa: a little chilli infusion, a very pleasant taste, and a most enjoyable experience. Whether it’s worth fou...

Rua Marques da Silva Location HERE . A short climb from the main road; the reward is another quiet viewpoint, with a few benches and very few tourists. No café, no TVDEs, no TukTuks. I did see one small electric vehicle pass by, but it was a CTT delivery truck. Best views from this viewpoint tend to feature ... Even so, you’re not so far from the busy thoroughfare of Avenida Almirante Reis, and if you carry on along Rua Marques da Silva, round the corner and down the (steep) hill, you’ll soon be there. The usual caution on tiled pavements applies. ... the Ponte Vasco da Gama in the background Views from the west round to the north and north-east. Best not leave it too late in the afternoon to get photos looking west. Can easily be done as a pair of viewpoints with Miradouro do Monte Agudo - the walk between the two is not a long or challenging one. Bus 797: alight at Rua Cesário Verde if coming from the Alameda, and at Igreja Penha França if coming from Sapadores. [ HOME ]

Praça Novas Nações Location HERE . Approached by a short private road from Rua Heliodoro Salgado, close to Praça António Sardinha. The gates from the main road should be open during daylight hours, and there is a short and not difficult climb to the viewpoint. A tiled panorama dates from 1965; you can see from the Bridge and Cristo Rei, then through an arc to the west and north. And what’s good about this location? It’s quiet. There is a café, but it’s unobtrusive. Sunlight angle tricky for photos looking south-west if you go in the afternoon. Maybe the approach road is barred to vehicular traffic - because, wait for it, there were no TVDEs or TukTuks when I visited. None at all. No crowds, no recycled guidebook patter, no road space clogged up with hopeful pilots and their equally hopeful punters. You find this one on your own, and as a result, get to enjoy it on your own. There is a mix of locals and visitors, taking an unhurried look across The Great City. You may have to compete fo...

Saldanha Residence, Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo Location HERE . Inside the ground floor of Saldanha Residence, along with several other food outlets, all of which get busy at lunchtime as office workers, shoppers and visitors descend on the place. But even at busy times, it is not difficult to find a table. Dosa is the main offering, but there is also an Idli menu, they offer a selection of Thali, and there is also a curry menu. Dosa and Idli come with chutney, raita and sambar. Not expensive, service good, and the staff will be happy to see you. They serve beer as well as soft drinks, but also offer mango lassi. Metro Picoas (steps only); Buses 722, 727, 736, 738, 744 and 783 nearby.

Several outlets across the Greater Lisbon area.. I visited the outlet in Saldanha Residence. Location HERE . “ We make tasty food ” is the strapline. The brand originated in Poland, but has now come to Portugal, and especially Lisbon. Lots of choices, reasonable prices, and yes, tasty food. I had a Prato Zahir (chicken version), which comes with chips, salad, and whichever of the sauces on offer you choose. There is a queue at lunchtime, but it moves quickly and you won’t have to wait long. There are also outlets across from Campo Mártires Pátria, at Areeiro, near Rato, at Campo Grande, and elsewhere. You are unlikely to be far from a Zahir Kebab when visiting Lisbon. Metro Picoas (steps only); Buses 722, 727, 736, 738, 744 and 783 nearby.

Some are pay viewpoints; most are free, but of course you have to get there first, which may mean a bus or tram journey, plus some climbing. REMINDER Already covered in The Old Downtown are the following: O Arco da Rua Augusta Jardim do Torel Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara Parque Eduardo VII Covered in Landmarks is Castelo de São Jorge Covered in Green Spaces is Parque Recreativo dos Moinos de Santana A cruise liner seen from O Arco da Rua Augusta Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol Miradouro da Graça Miradouro da Nossa Senhora da Graça Amoreiras 360 Miradouro de Santo Estêvão Alto da Serafina Miradouro do Monte Agudo Miradouro da Penha de França Miradouro da Rocha Conde de Óbidos Miradouro de Santa Catarina Miradouro do Largo das Necessidades [ HOME ]

Parque Recreativo del Alto de la Serafina Location HERE . Open every day. Park closes at 1800 hours. In the northern part of Parque Florestal de Monsanto. You should set aside an afternoon for this visit, and complete it during daylight hours. The shelter at the top of the hill A middling walk from the bus stop - no more than 500 metres - past the car and coach park, through the gateway by the Hello Park, bearing left at the little roundabout, then bearing right up the hill after the children’s park. View over the Ponte 25 de Abril ... At the top of that hill is a large shelter, more for getting shade in summer than sheltering from the rain. Tree growth has restricted some of the views, but you can still see across to Amoreiras, and across the Ponte 25 de Abril to Cristo Rei, as well as points between the two. ... and across to Amoreiras This is also a popular spot for picnics, so there may be families passing through. Allow plenty of time to walk back to the bus stop - remember, they ...

Largo de Santo Estêvão Location HERE . In the Alfama, and not easy to find on a first visit. From the tram stop in Rua das Escolas Gerais (just before the traffic light controlled section of single track) head straight on where the tram goes left. Carry on down the Rua das Escolas Gerais, bearing right at the junction with Calçadinha do Tijolo, then right into Rua do Vigário. Look for street signs on corners to confirm you’re on the right one (or not). View on a clear day ... Largo de Santo Estêvão is on the left. Turn sharp left after the road turns to the right, and you’ll see the viewpoint straight ahead. Alternatively, approach from the Rua dos Remédios heading SW; Rua do Vigário is a right turn, then bear left into Rua de Santo Estêvão. There are some steps up to the viewpoint. Views across the river, and of cruise liners if there are one or more of them in town. A few places to sit and relax. Out of range of tour buses and TukTuks, although organised walking and cycle tours may p...

THIS IS A PAY VIEWPOINT Avenida Eng. Duarte Pacheco Location HERE . Open all day at weekends; on weekdays closes between 1230 and 1430 hours. Enter the complex via the east side, on Rua Carlos Alberto da Mota Pinto. The information desk will direct you, and also sells tickets. More than 200 shops, 50 food outlets, and seven cinema screens. With a viewpoint on the roof. The Amoreiras shopping centre sits on top of one of Lisbon’s hills, and has an express lift (elevator for those Stateside) almost to the top. There are some steps from the lift to the viewing platform. And on that viewing platform, there are, Python fans … comfy chairs! Each side of the platform has a panorama with all visible landmarks identified for you. There is, in addition, a procession of aircraft passing almost overhead on approach to the airport, or departing from it, depending on the wind direction. There is a staff member on duty at all times. The viewing platform stays open into the evening, as does the shoppi...

Largo Monte Location HERE . Best viewpoint in the area, giving a sweeping view from the Castle to the south, to the west over the city, via views of Martim Moniz and across to the Ponte 25 de Abril and Cristo Rei. Also popular for views at sunset. Sadly, it is also popular with the TukTuk infestation, so expect to see the things clogging up the nearby streets, and hear the mostly recycled guidebook repartee. You want a tour? Part of that popularity is because TukTuk pilots know that anyone on foot has to do some climbing to get there. The most direct route to the viewpoint is via Rua Damasceno Monteiro and then up Calçada do Monte, but that’s very steep. Longer and less steep is to follow Rua da Senhora do Monte from its junction with Rua da Graça. This has been a popular viewpoint for so long that the tiled panorama dates from 1963. Apart from Martim Moniz looking very different today, the most obvious omission is No Bridge, as it was not opened until 1966. Bus 10B, 13B and 734, Tram ...

Calçada da Graça Location HERE . Gives a view westwards across the city. Lots of places to sit and chill, and the inevitable café. Very popular for views of the sunset (weather permitting). Ignore any claims that you need to climb up lots of hills to get here; you don’t. Just walk over from central Graça, along the Largo da Graça and round to the Jardim da Graça, and there it is. Bus 10B stops closest; 13B and 734, plus trams 12 and 28, nearby. Alternatively, catch a 12 tram at Martim Moniz and alight at Rua Lagares (3rd stop), then head north along Rua Lagares to the new Graça funicular (on your right). The top station is just under the viewpoint. [ HOME ]

Off Largo de Santa Luzia and Largo Portas do Sol Locations HERE and HERE . Covered together as they are almost next door to one another. CAUTION Searching for “ Miradouro de Santa Luzia ” will inevitably get you lots of results for the one in Viana do Castelo, unless you specify Lisbon. View from Miradouro das Portas do Sol ... The difference between the two is that Miradouro de Santa Luzia gives you a view from south to south-east, and Miradouro das Portas do Sol is more south-east to east. ... and from Miradouro de Santa Luzia Both have places to sit and chill, but rather more seats taken up by Quiosques and Cafés. Both get seriously busy, not least because they’re on the 28 tram route, and subject to visitation by the TukTuk infestation. You want a tour? Bus 10B from Campo Cebolas, Tram 12 or 28. [ HOME ]