4.5.6 Museu do Fado

Largo do Chafariz de Dentro 1

Location HERE.

Closed Mondays.

A short walk from Sul e Sueste, and an equally short walk from Santa Apolónia, this museum is on the edge of the Alfama, with the added bonus that you don’t need to climb any hills to get there.

Fado is a characteristically Portuguese musical genre, and is especially rooted in the seafaring community and the poor. Its lyrics often give a sense of longing, of melancholy, of fate, of karma, even.


Although it was definitely a known music form in the early 19th Century, Fado may have been around for a lot longer. When the Estado Novo came along, it posed a problem for António de Oliveira Salazar, who hated it, but knew he could not ban it. So it was strictly regulated: out went spontaneous forms of lyrics, all songs having to get past the state censor. Many did not.

All of this is covered at the Fado Museum, where the audio guide provided is invaluable, giving not only commentary, but samples of Fado songs, from the best known practitioners in the genre.

Perhaps the very best known is Amália Rodrigues, known as Rainha do Fado, or Queen of Fado, who made Fado known around the world. That she had been the greatest of Fadistas was underscored by her being given a state funeral. Three days of national mourning followed the announcement of her death; she was the first woman interred at the National Pantheon.

Fado is that important, in Lisbon especially. Maybe an evening at a Fado house is not for you, but take the time to listen to Amália Rodrigues singing Gaivota (Seagull) - link HERE.

Metro Terreiro do Paço or Santa Apolónia. Buses 10B, 13B and 734 nearby. 728 and 759 on the Avenida Infante Dom Henrique.

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